Thanks to Clothesline Laundromat and Fraidy Cats for their support.
The best Mexican food isn’t always in a restaurant. Mexican grocery stores can offer the same culture and flavors as authentically as a restaurant. Let’s step beyond the pre-packaged food at three West St. Paul grocery stores and sample their made-to-order menu.
Abarrotes La Doña
1200 S. Robert St. Suite B / LaDonaMN.com
I arrived at Abarrotes La Doña at 10 a.m., admittedly too early for anyone but a taco fanatic, but I charged on. The TV menus weren’t on yet. The place ran like a serving line, with large tubs of meats, soups, rice, and beans. For taco proteins they offered barbacoa and chicharrón in salsa verde. My usual lineup of barbacoa, lengua, carne asada, and al pastor was out.
I ordered two of each. The tacos were heavy, generously filled. The barbacoa had large, slow-stewed chunks with a good texture, but the flavor was too concentrated and dark, hard to want more than one. The chicharrón hit with a wave of unexpected heat, which I liked, though it might be too much for some. Texture-wise, it didn’t work for me. Not badly made, but the gelatinous bite isn’t my thing.
Tacos aren’t the move here. The soups and hot plates looked much more promising. If you’re after tacos, I’d go elsewhere.
The Village Market
433 Mendota Road E. / Facebook
Behind the meat counter, two butchers were breaking down and grinding beef. Above them, a menu of tortas, burritos, enchiladas, and quesadillas. I stuck with the tacos: barbacoa, lengua, carne asada, and al pastor.
Each taco came topped with onions, cilantro, and lime wedges. First bite, and surprisingly, the tortilla stood out. Strong corn flavor, warm, light, and despite the double wrap, perfectly balanced with the meat. It didn’t just hold up, it added something.
The carne asada was the standout, chopped into cubes with a deep char flavor. Lengua followed close behind, great texture, not too fatty, and bright with lime. The barbacoa and al pastor were solid, but if you’re going, get the carne asada and lengua. Maybe grab some tortillas to go.
El Destino Market
1834 Oakdale Ave. / Facebook: ElDestinoMarketWSP
El Destino Market is small, but the restaurant takes up a good portion of the space. The long menu stretches across the back with all kinds of savory dishes and desserts. I stuck with my usual order: barbacoa, lengua, carne asada, and al pastor.
Ten minutes later, the tacos came out steaming in a plastic box, filled to the brim and topped with onions, cilantro, and lime. They looked great, but the tortillas fell apart instantly. Even double-wrapped, they were too soft to hold up.
I was left eating the meat on its own. The lengua was tender, the barbacoa soft and salty, the al pastor flavorful but a bit too fatty for me. All of it was good, but without a functioning tortilla, the tacos didn’t work.
Their menu has range, and next time I’d go for a burrito or enchiladas—something with a little more structure.
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